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xyphr3

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About xyphr3

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  1. Thanks caintry_boy, I will try to clone the drive to a new hard drive. it would not let me create an .ISO with Paragon, but that would be something completely different. Next question, a friend said that new computer (granted this is a friend that lives in the UK and I am in Texas) states that the OEM number (normally found on a sticker with the windows cd that was thrown away when the computer was bought) is now on the computer tower somewhere? Is that true? So I wouldn't have to buy a new windows cd assuming the windows number is on the computer itself? Or, is there a program I can use to find the OEM code off the hard drive (when slaved) even though I can't pull windows from the drive itself? ***Update*** So my understanding is, from my google research, now and days the OEM is stored in the BIOS...so if I install a windows 8.0 version, the bios should automatically verify the product key for me?
  2. Two questions First, It says I need permission to perform this action when copying information off the hard drive. How do I get around that? Or is that more system information I really don't need. Second, can I perform an .ISO and when I get a new harddrive just dump it back on? It's been ages since I've down anything like that, what is a good program to use (if this is a feasible option)
  3. Thanks for the info. I've read other forums and some seemed to be able to fix the issue, but I figured it was a lost cause.
  4. Good evening to THE PIT! Long time no seeking help...which I suppose is good for me. I have a HP pavilion 23 that my friend said broke 2 days ago and I am trying to help get it fixed or at least confirm it is dead. So yesterday, every time I turned on the computer, it gave me a blue screen that said, no hard disk found. Today, it said preparing automatic repair...then took me to a screen that said to refresh the computer (ie. reinstall windows) or more options...the more options I could run check disk, system restore, check for diagnostic errors, etc etc. I did everything, I did a system restore, said it was a successful restore to the previous version (4 days ago) and when I restarted the computer, it gave me the same "preparing automatic repair. Took the computer apart, took out the battery, tried a hard reboot to see if that could fix the problem...it didn't...so finally I found my way to a different option to check the HDD itself. It ran a quick test (60 seconds max) and came back with the error of "Hard Drive Short DST Check - fail"? So I figure I am dead in the water. I took the hard drive out and slaved it to my computer and I can see all the files, it acts like it works fine...so I did some google searches, found a program called CrystalDiskInfo and it tells me caution on the drive. GREAT! ugh. So I guess I need help with either fixing it or proving it is no-fixable and tell him to purchase a new HDD/computer. So what can I try to do? I don't know much about the computer itself. think it is windows 8, WDD (green label) drive. HP Pavilion 23 (aka it's a black one, haha...touch screen too) P.S. Forgot to mention, I downloaded the Western digital data lifeguard, ran a fast disk scan on the affected drive, error came back almost immediately Test Option: QUICK TEST Model Number: WDC WD10EADS-65M2B0 Unit Serial Number: WD-WMAV51644851 Firmware Number: 01.00A01 Capacity: 1000.20 GB SMART Status: PASS Test Result: FAIL Test Error Code: 06-Quick Test on drive 2 did not complete! Status code = 07 (Failed read test element), Failure Checkpoint = 97 (Unknown Test) SMART self-test did not complete on drive 2! Test Time: 21:29:51, August 11, 2016
  5. I already have a new one coming and mailing my current splitter back. In the mean time, I have the Logitech touch mouse through my iphone where I can control my mouse through wifi. Now I just have to teach my employees (not computer savvy) that they just can't force the mouse up in the far right corner on the main monitor cause it will disappear onto the other monitor in the next room. Wish there was a way to block the mouse traveling to the next screen unless it was on the taskbar or something.
  6. Sorry, missed what you said here. I did try that, when one HDMI was plugged in at a time, the screen blinked like crazy, a lot worse! I should of said that earlier, but will mention it when I contact the manufactuer.
  7. Ok, will keep y'all updated . In the mean time, I will try using the Logitech iPhone mouse control to set up internet explorer on the TV screen. Thanks Terry!
  8. Yes, as stated in the edit on my first post of the day, the tv screens blink when both are running together through the hdmi spiltter. Like a glitch on the screen. It happens probably 4x a minute. But if each tv is plugged into the video card by itself, it doesn't blink/glitch.
  9. Exactly Terry!!But my main concern at this point is the Tv's blinking cause they can't blink while the video is playing. Also, I didn't realize that the computer I am working on is a little different then the computer I told you about. I figured they would be all the same computer but I think they are just a little different. So the computer I am a Gigabyte B75M-D3H, Intel i5-2310 CPU @ 2.90GHz, 8GB of DDR3 Ram. Would that change anything? My deepest apologies!
  10. Excellent! okay, I purchased the EVGA GeForce GT 610 card, with the HDMI splitter that was recommended and HDMI cords. The set-up works great, but the execution of the setup is where I am running into problems. So the TV's are receiving input properly and as intended, but I can't see the TV's to make changes. Currently I have the video card set up as a "side-by-side" monitor setup so I am dragging the internet window between my monitor and the TV's. I can't see what is on the TV's when sitting at my desk!!! So, is there a way to see the TV's screen on the main monitor and make changes that way? I know it is very confusing and I am sorry! EDIT!! Okay, when both TV's are hooked up to the HDMI splitter, both screens blink at the same time. They blink whether they are showing the video or just showing the wallpaper. When each TV is hooked straight into the video card, it doesn't blink. So....possibly faulty HDMI splitter or signal needs to be stronger coming from the video card? Help!!
  11. I appreciate everyones input. Sorry, the holidays kept me busy. After re-reading everyones comments, I think I will just go based off of this card above with the HDMI splitter. The monitor at the station can be DVI/VGA with no problem. My question is, does the 1GB or 2GB matter? It isnt a big price difference and not a problem to do the 2GB, just didn't know if that was recommened.
  12. Thanks to everyone for your help. i will look into this and get back to y'all. This is the size of my case, medium or so. It also looks like the PSU is only 300W. Guess they decided to jip us on that.
  13. Does the HDMI length bother you at all? 50feet is long, but if the signal doesnt degrade quickly....
  14. I have a self-build computer (not myself but a company did it for us), it has windows 7 professional 64-bit, Intel DB65AL board, Intel Core i5-2500 @ 3.30GHz, 8GB ram. Currently I am using the onboard video card, but this is what I would like to do....but maybe y'all can tell me it can or can't be done. *Please bare with me, not sure how to explain this properly* So currently, I am using the DVI cable connect to run the screen. Not running anything crazy at all, it is a work station computer that does not pull any major power, just had nice computers built for longer (fingers crossed) use. What I want to do is get a video card that will let me due a dual monitor connection, I would like to continue to do my normal work station stuff plus run a hdmi connect to two tv's (via a HDMI split) that will run youtube-like videos. One TV will be on a 5ft HDMI cord while the other TV will be on a 50ft (yes fifty foot) HDMI wire. The dual monitors will be running the exact same video and sound, but I didn't know if a video card could push 50ft of HDMI data or if HDMI data really degraded that quickly. I would like to stay around $150 dollars. I know a nettop or a single computer per TV would be ideal, but wondering since I don't need to touch the video, it just plays the same information over and over and over, if I could get this to work. On the other hand, I do have a separate computer we are not using that would just run the TV's only(still need a HDMI video card) but will the 50ft of HDMI when split be a problem? Thanks for your help and hopefully I have made some sense.
  15. Thanks and much appreciate Juliet. I will keep on the problem and add to this thread within 72 hours if things haven't been completely resolved, but right now it looks like it has.
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